Barbaresco: Northern Italian Beauties

There are two great red wines made in Northern Italy, just to the southwest of Milan—Barolo and Barbaresco. Barolo is the more muscular wine, and Barbaresco the more elegant, fragrant wine. Both are made from 100% nebbiolo, all grown on hillsides. In the region, 2004 has turned out to be a great vintage, so if anyone can find the following wines in that vintage, they are probably even better than 2005, which has turned out to be a much better vintage than initially believed prior to the harvest. Because of the limited production numbers of these wines, they are never cheap, as the demand even in dismal world economic conditions remains elevated. These tasting notes come from my brilliant colleague on Italian wines, Antonio Galloni.

91 points 
2005 Piero Busso Barbaresco Borgese

The 2005 Barbaresco Borgese flows onto the palate with generous candied cherries, menthol, pine, and spices. This mid-weight Barbaresco shows a level of clarity and transparency that I don't recall seeing here in the past. There is outstanding depth, with well-integrated tannins and a long, refreshing finish. This is a terrific showing from Piero Busso. Anticipated maturity: 2009-19. $45